Testing the senses in Shanghai to find China's best antitourism and off-beat secrets. Dry and sometimes funny observations from a fixed gear roller, food eater and photograph taker.

One of the easiest things about Cantonese food is that it generally tastes as good as it looks. Restaurants tend to put their best stuff in the window. A glance over someone’s shoulder at the colours and consistency of what they’re eating will give a good idea of whether it’s worthwhile. Besides, it’s a custom to interrogate the waitress at length, somehow forcing them to admit their best secret dishes.

Today – not necessary. I’m here for one thing. I’ve seen it in the window already and it looks as succulent as can be. Hainan Chicken is my chinese comfort food. Fresh, clean, boiled chicken plunged in ice water, served with soy and muddled ginger.

Some prefer plump chicken, others think smaller, younger birds bring succulence. In a land of bones I’m with meat.

Whilst the dish has it’s namesake origins, Hainanese Chicken Rice is a Singaporean animal. I still dream of that street market near the container port with the 20 minute queue.

This one place in the back streets of Haizhu, however, that I don’t know the name of and will never find again, served it virtually as good as I remember. I thanked the chef – he looked on without batting an eyelid, not wanting of my commendation.

Hidden above the tourism epicentre that is People’s Square, Kathleen’s 5 looks down on the trees (and up at the giant screens) from atop the fusty Shanghai Art Museum. The signs lead you to a seemingly steam-driven lift, up a flight of stairs and through a couple of old-school corridors before emerging on to the building’s decked rooftop, twinkling bar, chinking glasses and somehow piped-in sensation of exclusivity.

We’re shown to a seat by more than eager and slightly too loud staff who promptly leave us for half an hour (go figure) to read the short menu three times and soak in the view.

I’ve never seen a sausage made of seafood before. There’s a reason for that and Kathleen is no exception. The goat’s cheese cannelloni was a far better choice, lightly balancing two ingredients our china dwelling western palettes crave for once in a while.

Perhaps the western-itch was why I made the second faux pas of the evening by ordering the beef fillet. As Tomeats always says, ‘never get the steak. (unless of course you’re in a steak house or Les Trois Garcons) It was precisely as average as it could be, cooked medium, smothered in peas, bacon, mushrooms etc and not even served with chips. The winner went to a simple mascarpone risotto. I see a trend here.

With a good bottle of red or two and some heightened powers deduction, I managed to salvage the evening with a somehow yoghurt-modified cheesecake and biscuit Florentine – unique and worthy. The verdict, skip supper and impress a date with dessert at the bar.

5th Floor, Shanghai Art Museum,
325 Nanjing Xi Lu,
+ 86 21 6327 2221
http://www.kathleens5.com